Quick Facts
Location: Southern Utah between Big Water and Escalante
Coordinates: Big Water, Utah 37.08164880718471, -111.64664265991867
Escalante, Utah 37.76041506673247, -111.61533689219414
Length: 77 Miles
Difficulty: Easy – Moderate
Dog Friendly: Yes
Introduction:
If your idea of a good time involves dusty tires, endless views, and a serious feeling of being out there, Smoky Mountain Road is calling your name. This legendary backroad cuts through some of the wildest, most remote country between Big Water and Escalante, Utah. It’s raw, it’s rugged, and it’s exactly the kind of adventure that sticks with you long after you wash the dust out of your hair.
How to Get There:
Getting started is pretty easy. If you’re coming from Big Water, Utah, just off Highway 89, you’ll find the southern start of Smoky Mountain Road. It’s well marked, but don’t expect a paved welcome mat. The road immediately turns into packed dirt and gravel, winding its way north toward Escalante. You can also access it from the north via Escalante, though most travelers start from the south to take advantage of the gradual climb. Before you even think about hitting this road, check the weather, rain turns parts of it into an absolute mud pit that can trap even the best 4x4s.
Description of the Landscape:
The beauty of Smoky Mountain Road is that the landscape changes every few miles. At first, you’re rolling through broad desert flats with distant buttes teasing the horizon. Then, the world falls away into massive canyons and deep washes carved by ancient water and wind. Climbing higher, you’ll drive along steep ridgelines where the desert stretches out in every direction, endless and wild. Rock formations shift from white and pink sandstone to deep, dark volcanic rock, giving the whole journey a feeling like you’re moving through different worlds. If you’re lucky, a few pronghorn antelope or wild horses might cross your path, just to remind you how untamed this place really is.
Trail Difficulty and Length:
This isn’t a Sunday drive. Smoky Mountain Road stretches about 77 miles from Big Water to Escalante. The southern half tends to be smoother, while the northern half gets rougher, especially near Kelly Grade where the road clings to the edge of steep cliffs. High-clearance vehicles are absolutely necessary, and four-wheel drive is strongly recommended. There are no gas stations, no quick exits, and no tow trucks lurking around the corner. You’ve got to be self-reliant and ready for anything, which is half the thrill.
Can You Bring Your Dog?
If your dog loves car rides and doesn’t mind a few bumps, Smoky Mountain Road is a dream. Dogs are welcome anywhere along the route, and there are plenty of spots to pull over and let them stretch their legs. Just remember, there’s zero shade out here and absolutely no water, so you’ll need to pack plenty for both you and your four-legged copilot. Heatstroke sneaks up fast in the desert, so keep an eye on your buddy and take breaks as needed.
Keep It Clean: Rules and Regulations:
Because Smoky Mountain Road crosses through BLM land and parts of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, basic public land rules apply. Stay on established roads, pack out all your trash, and leave any artifacts, rocks, or plants exactly where you found them. No permits are needed for driving the road itself, but if you plan to camp overnight along the way, you’ll need to follow Leave No Trace camping guidelines. And seriously, don’t even think about starting a campfire unless you know it’s allowed, desert wildfires are no joke.
More Trails to Explore:
Smoky Mountain Road isn’t the only adventure around here. If you’re craving more off-roading, Cottonwood Canyon Road offers a slightly easier but still beautiful drive through colorful badlands and narrow canyons. Alstrom Point, branching off Smoky Mountain Road near Big Water, delivers one of the most famous sunset views over Lake Powell. If you’re really feeling bold, Hole-in-the-Rock Road near Escalante leads to some of the wildest slot canyon hikes anywhere in the country.
Not Driving? No Problem
If you need a break from the driver’s seat, the towns of Escalante and Page offer plenty of ways to slow down. Escalante’s Petrified Forest State Park is great for a short hike among ancient fossilized trees. In Page, you can visit Horseshoe Bend, tour Antelope Canyon, or spend a day boating or kayaking on Lake Powell. Both towns have small but mighty dining scenes where you can fuel up before hitting the road again.
Accommodations: Where To Set Up Basecamp
Canyon Country Lodge – Escalante, Utah
Canyon Country Lodge blends modern comfort with small-town charm, making it a fantastic base for exploring Grand Staircase–Escalante. The rooms are spacious and clean, the on-site restaurant serves hearty meals, and the indoor pool is a welcome treat after a day of hiking slot canyons. With its convenient location right in Escalante, you’ll be close to trails, cafes, and all the desert beauty you came for.
Circle D Motel – Escalante, Utah
Circle D Motel offers a budget-friendly and reliable stay without sacrificing location. It’s simple, clean, and comfortable, with easy parking and quick access to local restaurants and shops. Many travelers love it as a no-frills basecamp for outdoor adventures in the Grand Staircase. If you want a straightforward place to rest between hikes, this is a solid choice.
Courtyard Page at Lake Powell – Page, Arizona
If you’re looking for comfort with a view, Courtyard Page at Lake Powell is a solid pick. The hotel sits just minutes from iconic spots like Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyon, so you’ll spend less time driving and more time exploring. Rooms are modern, the pool area is a great place to cool off after desert hikes, and the on-site dining makes grabbing a bite effortless. It’s a convenient hub for both relaxation and adventure.
Hampton Inn & Suites Page – Page, Arizona
Hampton Inn & Suites keeps things easy with a warm welcome, cozy rooms, and a complimentary breakfast that fuels you up before a day on the trails or out on the lake. The property is clean and reliable, with the kind of consistency travelers love when they want comfort without fuss. Plus, it’s close to all the main attractions in Page, so you can maximize your time soaking in epic views instead of figuring out logistics.
Best Time to Visit:
Spring and fall are hands-down the best times to tackle Smoky Mountain Road. From March through May and September through November, the days are warm but not brutal, and the nights are crisp and perfect for camping. Summer brings searing heat that can turn your car into an oven and leave you dangerously dehydrated. Winter sees fewer crowds, but snow and ice can make parts of the road downright dangerous, especially along the steep grades. No matter the season, always check road and weather conditions before heading out.
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